Question My PC isn't getting excepted performance ingame

[minakoclato]

So my PC is not getting the performance that it should in game I'm on minimum settings. It should at least get 60+ fps but it gets 30 barely on warzone 2.0 I have a gtx 1060 3gb oc and a i7 4790 and 16 gigs of ram it shouldn't be playing this bad. My PC idles at 54c any suggestions?

 

[XxDarkMario20xX]

if your cpu idle at 54c then when running games it be much worst maybe try repasting the cpu

 

[Eximo]

What kind of chassis is it? Do you have sufficient intake and exhaust fans?

 

[minakoclato]

It has 2 fans on the front of the pc 1 in the back and 2 on top. The front ones are intakes I think top ones are exhaust and the back one is too. It suffices I think almost every thing is new except the gpu

 

[pete_101]

It has 2 fans on the front of the pc 1 in the back and 2 on top. The front ones are intakes I think top ones are exhaust and the back one is too. It suffices I think almost every thing is new except the gpu

The gpu is the newest thing on your build. The i7-4790 is from 2014 as is the motherboard and RAM to support it. Having said that, the 4790 is plenty powerful enough for a 1060 3GB.

So when you say everything else is "new" I assume you mean it was recently put together (from used parts I assume)? What CPU cooler does it have, is it the stock Intel cooler?

I have an old 4790K and it's performance drops the moment it goes over 80C, and at 85C it's a stuttering mess. By lowering voltage I got it to run stable on a reasonable overclock, but it has a good cooler. So, you either need a better cooler, replace the thermal paste on your old cooler and/or undervolt the CPU a bit as default is higher than what's usually required.

 

[minakoclato]

Intel stock cooler I installed Core temp and all was well until I saw it said 90+ C definitely not enough cooling it might be because of the 37c weather in the summer (the parts were refurbished)

 

[Karadjgne]

Ambient temp plays a major role in idle temps. You cannot physically cool an object by mechanical means below ambient, it takes a chemical process to do that. A cpu cooler sitting on a cpu being cooled by a fan is mechanical.

So the cpu is starting out at case ambient temps. The air pushed through the cooler is case ambient temps, which are generally 10°C to 15°C higher than outside ambient. Then it's a tiny 115° cooler, not even the @ 140° of a hyper212 equivalent. Stuck on a cpu that can easily hit higher than it's 84w rating.

Nickles and dines don't seem like much, but they do add up to a dollar. All of the conditions are just adding 5° here, 10° there, so it's not entirely surprising to see 80°+ from that setup.

4th gen do Not like heat or voltage, most motherboards tend to bump voltages used by the cpu so they can advertise that their board has higher performance. With 4th gen, that's the opposite, those cpus should maintain well under 1.3v vcore, on mobo's that want to push vcore higher. Which raises temps.

Better cooler, undervolt the cpu, and most likely either remove the top front exhaust fan or make it an intake if using a tower cooler.

 

[minakoclato]

The motherboard I have is quite old h81m p33 so either the motherboard or the cooler I'll take my chances on both and get them replaced

 

[Avro Arrow]

The motherboard I have is quite old h81m p33 so either the motherboard or the cooler I'll take my chances on both and get them replaced

Just try changing the cooler first. There's no reason to spend money on a new motherboard if you don't need to. If the cooler alone doesn't fix the problem, then look at the motherboard.

The cooler doesn't have to be expensive because your CPU's TDP is only 88W. Here's a $20 tower cooler rated for 150W that would be more than enough:

Thermaltake Contac Silent 12 150W: $20USD

 

[Karadjgne]

General rule of thumb I use for coolers is if I want to see gaming load temps (they average @ 70% of max cpu temp) of @ 70° or less, the cooler must = 1.5x-2x the wattage depending on case airflow and ambient temps.

You have a cpu capable of hitting 90w (ish). That means you'd want a cooler in the 140w -180w capable range. That range includes a good amount of decent 120mm -140mm aircoolers and the 120mm - 140mm aios.

Add to that you'll have higher ambient temps, which raises case temps, which lowers cooler efficiency, you'd want to skip over the 140w class coolers and be looking at the 160w - 180w coolers.

Cooling isn't linear on a graph, it's logarithmic. So as your cpu starts using wattage, your cooling line slowly starts to rise. Until you get to 60-70ish %, at which point the cooler is getting heat saturated and it's efficiency takes a nose dive. Instead of 1w = 1° raise, it turns into 1w = 2°, then 1w = 3° and your temp skyrockets with very minor wattage changes.

So the aim with using a cooler rated double the cpu wattage is to keep the cooler out of heat saturation, so no matter how many watts you throw at it, it doesn't see the sudden rise in temps, stays efficient, which keeps the cpu cooler.

Capacity and efficiency are not the same thing. Noctua has spent years worth of testing and measuring to make the NH-D15, it's a 250w+ class cooler. It's also very efficient. It's the efficiency which lowers the temps, not the capacity, the 160w NH-U12S is actually more efficient than the much larger D15, and gets better temps, until the cpu is outputting @ 140w+ and then temps go up in a hurry. The D15 at 140w is barely over the 50% mark, so is still inside the 1w = 1° line, shows better temps.

So bigger does not necessarily mean better, a D15 on your cpu would get worse temps than the smaller and cheaper U12S, less efficient.

With a better, bigger, more efficient cooler you'll also not need earplugs, the volume on the fan will go way down.

 

[minakoclato]

Ok so it was fixed and the motherboard was the problem thank god I got a 1 month warrantee