Alpamayo Expedition Itinerary

The SJMG Difference

SJMG has been running programs in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca since the late 90’s. As a result, we have developed an in-depth understanding of what it takes to manage the overall flow and logistics of the Alpamayo Expedition.  From a refined and time-tested itinerary, and up-to-date and detailed knowledge of the route on Alpamayo’s SW face, to choosing the perfect hotels and other local operators – you can rest assured that our program represents the best in the industry when it comes to the execution of all the little details that help make this a rewarding and successful experience.

Day 1

Depart U.S. for Peru arriving late evening. We will be there to pick you up at the airport and transport you to our hotel near the US Embassy in the Mariscal Sur district.

Day 2

Today we travel to the high mountain town of Huaraz (9,500 ft.), and our hotel accommodations for the evening.

Day 3

In Huaraz, we organize equipment and food for our expedition.  This also serves as a valuable acclimatization day.

Day 4

Drive to Cashapampa (9,000′).  Along the way we will pass through many smaller Peruvian villages and enjoy beautiful views of many Cordillera Blanca peaks, including the massive Huascaran. We begin our trek up the lovely Santa Cruz Valley to camp at Illma Corral (11,500′).

Day 5

Another splendid day of trekking in the high Andes to reach our base camp (13,500′) for Alpamayo.

Day 6

We hike a load of equipment and supplies to camp 1 (moraine) and return to base camp.

Day 7

Today we hike to and stay at moraine camp.

Day 8

A rest and acclimatization day at moraine camp.

Day 9

Today we will move to Camp 2, also known as Col Camp.  This is one of the more challenging days of the expedition, as we will be navigating crevasses and some steep two-tool climbing with heavier packs on the way to our camp at 18,000′.

Day 10

Summit Day on Alpamayo (19,512′).  After we cross the bergschrund it is approximately 7 – 9 pitches of 55 – 70 degree neve and ice climbing to the summit ridge and the top of this sought after peak.  We will rappel the route back to high camp.

Day 11

Extra summit day or rest day at Col Camp.

Day 12

Extra summit day on Alpamayo.  Alternatively and if the group is feeling strong, we may choose to climb Quitaraju (19,820′) by it’s North Face.  Though not as steep as Alpamayo, the route is longer and crests the magical 6000 meter mark.

Day 13

Descend to basecamp from Col Camp.

Day 14

With the aid of horses we will descend from basecamp back to Cashapampa and continue to Huaraz.

Day 15

Depart Huaraz and return to Lima. It is best to schedule a flight that night and you will return to the U.S.

Training & Follow Up Climbs

As always, being in excellent physical shape is an important component of our our programs. A good mixture of cardiovascular fitness, muscular fitness, and especially core strength will help you to maximize the potential rewards that are possible on a great climbing trip.

Before Your Trip

The Alpamayo Expedition requires our participants to have previous technical climbing experience.  At a minimum, participants should have completed our Alpine Expedition Prep Course and a few days of Private Ice Guiding on ice routes such as Stairway to Heaven and Whorehouse Ice Hose.  Additionally, team members on this expedition should have previous multi-day expedition experience on climbs such as Ecuador’s Volcanoes, Denali’s West Buttress, or similar climbs in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge.

We take the screening for the Alpamayo climb seriously, so please get in touch with our office if you have any questions about your fitness for the climb.  Team members should engage in a rigorous cardiovascular and upper/lower body training regimen.  The Alpine Training Center in Boulder as well as Cold Fear have excellent training resources available to aspiring alpinists.

For the Ham & Eggs Expedition you should be ready for:

• Travel in a South American country – Peru
• Climbing 55 – 70 degree neve & ice at altitudes up to 6000 meters
• 12 – 15 hour summit days and early alpine starts
• Fickle weather, cold temperatures, warm temperatures, delays, other factors beyond our control

Follow Up Climbs

• Denali via The West Rib Expedition
• Cody, WY Ice Climbing
• Backcountry Ice Seminar
• Alpamayo Expedition

Huaraz, Peru: Getting There

For the purposes of practicality, all of our Peru: Cordillera Blanca programs begin and end in Lima, Peru.  However, we spend minimal time in Lima and quickly transfer our program to Huaraz (9,800′) at the base of the Cordillera Blanca.  Each climbing season (May – September), hundreds of climbers descend on Huaraz and utilize the relatively modern South American city as a base of operations from which to organize climbs and treks throughout the nearby Cordillera Blanca.  Our itinerary calls for travel to Huaraz by either 1st class bus or private vehicle.  Participants may also choose to fly into Huaraz, connecting through Lima.

We require our participants to fly into Lima, Peru. The International Airport is a busy hub for airline travel and many options exist. Most flights from the US to Lima originate in either Miami, FL or Houston, TX.  We quickly exit Lima and transfer to Huaraz by either 1st class bus or private vehicle.

We’ve never had trip participants actually drive to Peru from the US. Although it is entirely possible, we can’t recommend this option.

• Ouray, CO to Huaraz, Peru: 100+ hours

 We provide lodging in Peru for the duration of the program.

Program Policies

Registration & Cancellation

Advance Registration is required for this program.  You have the option to either call our office and register via phone or utilize our secure Online Reservation System.  All participants must read and sign an Assumption of Risks/Liability Waiver and agree to our Reservations and Cancellations Policies.

Inclusions

• Guiding and trip leadership with an AMGA Certified, Bi-lingual guides
• Ground Transportation in Peru
• All in-country lodging
• Burros, Porters, and Cooks
• Park Entrance Fees
• Breakfasts and Dinners in the mountains
• Group camping and cooking equipment (tents, stoves, etc.)
• Group climbing and technical equipment (ropes, etc.)

Exclusions

• Transportation to Lima, Peru
• Additional hotel costs before or after the program or those not planned on the itinerary
• Personal Lunch Food
• Meals or drinks in towns, cities, and hotels
• Trip cancellation insurance – recommended
• Personal alpine climbing clothing
• Costs associated with early returns, weather delays, or other factors beyond our control
• Final transfer from Lima hotel to airport
• Guide gratuity