Jump to content

Banner.jpg.b83b14cd4142fe10848741bb2a14c66b.jpg

Sbig stf 8300m Power supply

davidgr1976

By davidgr1976
in Discussions - Cameras

Recommended Posts

Physopto

Physopto

Posted
Posted

The ST 402 power supply is a 1 amp supply.  SBIG state that although it will fit the STF 8300m it can not provide the power needed to run that camera. This suggests it needs far more than 1 amp to run even at a nominal rate. Usually there is a bit of headroom included in  a camera supply so I would guess it will require about 2 amps at least for safe running and more as switching takes place.

Derek

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Physopto

Physopto

Posted
Posted

Well, 2A.. Then i don't need a nuclear power station.... But I still consider it very high... Thank you!!

It was on their web site, about the power of the other camera. Please do not expect my estimation to be gospel. It was just my guess at what could be needed. I don't want to be shot for spreading false info. :p

Derek

Link to comment
Share on other sites
perfrej

perfrej

Posted
Posted

Mine sucks 0.6A idle without cooling, 2.3A with coooler at 100%. 1.1A with cooler at 50%, which is where it more or less stays at 20° below ambient. I would call it 1A on average.

/per

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Physopto

Physopto

Posted
Posted

Mine sucks 0.6A idle without cooling, 2.3A with coooler at 100%. 1.1A with cooler at 50%, which is where it more or less stays at 20° below ambient. I would call it 1A on average.

/per

Hi Per,

 What temp do you run the ccd at then? I know that the colder the better or so everyone says to reduce thermal noise. I run at (when I actually get the chance) -20 deg C. the ambient is usually between 6 down to -6 deg C. That ambient is only because of the time of year I get the chance to do it. I can't at home.

Derek

Link to comment
Share on other sites
perfrej

perfrej

Posted
Posted

Haha! Well, if you take the camera apart and flip the Peltier element around you get a heater ;)

Mine is a run at -20°C and my ambient is around zero this time of year.

My SBIG is a wreck, though. The CCD temperature reporting went haywire two years ago and the camera has been to SBIG twice and they can't find the problem, even though I told them what I thought it was and that it was intermittent in long periods - like one week good, one week bad. I finally ripped it apart and found the problem within thirty minutes. Three really poor solder joints and a break in the plated hole for the temperature sensor, which unfortunately connects in one of the board layers that is not on the surface. I have to take it apart every few weeks and re-heat the joint as it keeps dropping out on me, so I cannot use the thing for anything of importance. If I had a schematic I could wire it on the surface.

Not impressed with it but won't replace it immediately as I am saving up for a monster camera...

How's this for factory produced soldering?

post-9361-0-36948100-1428301320.jpg

/per

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Physopto

Physopto

Posted
Posted

Wires that size should never be soldered onto a board. They should be soldered through it to give some support and the pad should be enlarged specifically to receive the soldering. Very poor show for a company with their reputation to protect!

I can see why you are able to run at 50% if you are lucky enough to have zero degrees, brrrrrrrr. ;)

Derek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.