How To Dutch Braid Your Hair: A Step-by-Step Guide

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Getty Images / Design by Zackary Angeline

While Dutch braids often get confused with French braids, the two styles are actually distinct. And while braiding your own hair can already prove difficult, reversing the direction of the three strands poses its own challenges.

But with a bit of practice, you can commit the action to muscle memory in no time. We spoke to experts Irinel de Leon and Mahisha Dellinger for a step-by-step guide on Dutch-braiding your hair.

Meet the Expert

  • Irinel de Leon is a Los Angeles-based celebrity hair stylist and curly hair expert. Her clients include Kendall Jenner, Hailey Bieber, Karlie Kloss, and Chrissy Teigen.
  • Mahisha Dellinger is the founder and CEO of CURLS, a natural hair care brand.

What Is a Dutch Braid?

Dutch braiding involves crossing the hair underneath sections versus over, as with French braiding. The style is also known as a reverse braid and is sometimes incorrectly attributed to UFC fighters (and referred to as "boxer braids").

"This hairstyle is really great for any hair type, " de Leon says. "Those with straight or wavy hair can wear it overnight for pretty wearable braids come morning." For those with curly hair, Dutch braids are a great protective style to couple with a treatment or hair oil. Plus, though this style works beautifully on dry hair, it can be done on wet hair before sleeping for luscious waves upon waking up.

What You'll Need

  • Hair gel or pomade
  • Edge control
  • Detangler
  • Clear hair ties
  • Rat tail Comb
  • Detangling brush
  • Anti-frizz serum

Dellinger recommends the CURLS Blueberry Bliss Control Jelly ($20) for definition and shine. Similarly, de Leon recommends prepping the hair before braiding with a gel or pomade to ensure a clean surface to feed the hair in and to help the Dutch braid maintain its hold. Ouidad's Clear Control Pomade ($26) tames the hair for a clean finish without feeling heavy.

How to Dutch Braid Your Hair

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Center Part and Detangle Your Hair

Start with center-parted hair and brush out any tangles. "It'll make it so much easier to braid and feed hair in as you work your way down if there are no tangles," says de Leon. "You also want to make sure your part is as straight as possible—you can use the bridge of your nose as a guide and follow upwards with a tail comb." It should feel like the part is in the middle of the nape of your neck once you reach the bottom. Place a section of hair over each shoulder.

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Grab Three Small Pieces of Hair and Start Crossing

Grab three small pieces (about half an inch or less) at your hairline. The key point to remember with Dutch braids is to weave each piece under rather than over (basically the opposite of a French braid). The piece on the right goes under the middle, and then the piece on the left goes under that.

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Repeat the Crossing Pattern, Adding Hair as You Go

Repeat the pattern of crossing the right section under the middle strand and then the left section under the middle strand. Keep adding more hair (about a half- to three-quarter-inch) from the root each time you weave in a new section.

Byrdie Tip

Maintain tension as you braid—the tighter, the better. If you're into the loose, feathery Dutch braids, you can always pull the edges of the braid out slowly for a wider finish when you're done.

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Switch to a Three-Strand Braid

Once you reach the nape of your neck, switch to a regular three-strand braid.

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Tie the End With a Clear Hair Tie

Tie it off at the end with a clear hair tie. We love Kitch's Clear No-Snag Elastics ($3). Repeat the process on the other side.

Don't worry if you can't get the hang of it on the first try. "Practice makes perfect," says Dellinger. "Commit to practicing this braid technique at least two hours a week until you perfect it."

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Optional: Open Up the Loops

For a messier Dutch braid, pull the loops to open them up. If you're prone to frizz, spritzing with an anti-frizz hair serum—like the Josh Rosebrook Serum Spray ($19)—after braiding will help tame the plaits.

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