Review: Picasso Museum

Zoom out. What’s this place all about?
A museum spread over five palaces—we’d expect nothing less for Picasso, who moved to Barcelona as a 14-year-old boy and made frequent trips back throughout his life. Downstairs, a courtyard and Gothic archways lead into white studios that illuminate his works. Upstairs, the rooms are lavish: epic painted ceilings that almost drip crystal chandeliers. Visitors flock here to see Picasso's work, but the special setting is why they come back again and again.

Ye shall know them by their permanent collection: How was it?
If you’re expecting Picasso’s big-hitters, you might be disappointed—for a few minutes anyway. Guernica resides in the Reina Sofía in Madrid, The Weeping Woman at London’s Tate Modern. What Barcelona’s museum has is everything around those postcard images. In chronological order, it shows every brushstroke (all 4,251 works’ worth) of how he moved from a classically trained painter (see Ciencia y Caridad in Room 3) to a Cubist pioneer. Plus, some things we never knew he did, like ceramics. Some 41 pieces were donated by his widow, Jacqueline Roque.

But also by their new shoes. How were the exhibits?
There’s almost always a temporary exhibition that relates to Picasso’s life, often using a different medium, like how a photographer captured him over the years.

What did you make of the crowd?
The crowd reflects Picasso’s generation-spanning appeal. There’s the chatter and foot-stomp of school trips; culture- and content-hungry Gen Z-ers; plus, those repeat visitors who’ve been lured back again and again over the decades. Book tickets in advance online: each timeslot is color-coded by how busy it is, giving you a gauge of how many people you’ll be sharing the gift shop with.

On the practical tip, how were facilities?
Expect some stairs, but in general rooms are spacious, and there are benches and seating throughout the building, as well as elevators.

Any guided tours worth trying?
Insider tip: entrance is free on Thursday evenings (5 p.m. to 7 p.m.). Otherwise, tickets are €12 ($13.50), with the option to buy an audio guide that you download to your smartphone. Don’t forget to bring headphones.

Gift shop: obligatory, inspiring—or skip it?
Not necessarily obligatory; though it's well-stocked and carries lots of books, cards, and museum-branded items like mugs and T-shirts.

Is the café worth a stop, or should we just plan on going elsewhere?
No on-site café, but plenty of charming spots near the museum if you're willing to wander.

Any advice for the time- or attention-challenged?
An hour is doable: don't skip Picasso’s early pieces, which are genuinely a fascinating display of someone finding their artistic feet; you'll also want to see Las Meninas, probably the best-known of the lesser-knowns. It’s not one piece, but several works that developed from Picasso’s obsession with one painting: Las Meninas by Diego Velázquez. Picasso made a series of his own versions, reinterpreting Velázquez’s work, and they're displayed together in Rooms 12 to 14.