Review: Benares

Tell us about your first impressions when you arrived.
Benares is big, bold and modern, another Mayfair Indian that's keen on its dark, hand-crafted wood furniture and a sense of calm.

What was the crowd like?
This is Atul Kochhar's place, the first smart Indian restaurant to ever win a Michelin star, and rightly so. The crowd knows it too, and there is a dress code—smart more than casual, no shorts or sneakers allowed. You can tell by the attractive folks slung around the large bar area—it feels as much as a destination to be seen as a diner.

What should we be drinking?
Passion Fruit Chutney Martini anyone? All the cocktails have been seriously thought about—think a Manhattan with Amrut Indian Whiskies, Cocchi Vermouth, and home made Maraschino cherries. The wine is taken more seriously here than at most Indian restaurants I've visited, as the menu says it's all about the balance—and rightly so. Thankfully for those of us who'd rather not spend an hour perusing the extensive list, the Sommelier's selection by the glass uses an innovative technology to draw out the wine without removing the cork. (Still not cheap, though!) Try the 2008 Riesling Cuvée Frédérick Emile from Alsace.

Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.
If "unfaultable" were an actual word that's what I'd use to describe Benares's cooking. It's expensive, perfectly presented, and worth every penny. You could go for the set menu option which is reasonably priced, but I feel that defeats the point of coming to a Michelin-starred restaurant. The tasting menu will set you back a cool £100 per person (and almost double that if you pair it with wine), but trust me, just take out your wallet. Let's talk cuisine. Modern Indian using predominantly British ingredients, starters like pan-seared scallops come with roasted apple and lemon chutney, and perfectly flavoured spiced root vegetables. The lobster biryani and Tandoori chicken murgh mains are exceptional; the meat of the latter fine and tender, the seasoning delicate. And then's there's Kochhar's Celebrity Masterchef dish: Hiran Ke Pasande or New Forest venison, with kale and chestnut mushrooms, biryani, and butternut squash purée chocolate curry. Order it.

And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?
Helpful, attentive, and happy to give advice when called on.

What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?
For a major celebration—unless you've got money to burn.