Exploring Agra beyond the Taj

Much before you get to the Taj Mahal, you realise the city has appropriated it in more ways than one. Vendors are selling mini replicas of the Taj; hotels are boasting of the “best view”; stop to chat with an old-timer and you will likely hear how their forefathers worked on the tomb; and shops, regardless of what they sell—from mithai to bathware—are proudly branded Taj. And then when you walk through the ornate red sandstone gates, into the Mughal gardens, you truly realise what it means. Almost like a rising moon, the Taj grows bigger and bigger till you are craning your neck to take in the enormity of its central dome and towering minarets. Amita Baig, executive director, World Monument Fund, has worked on the restoration of the Taj Mahal along with other monuments in the city. “Without a doubt, Taj is the pinnacle of Mughal architecture in India,” she says. “But despite its beauty, it is tragic to make Agra a one-point destination.”

A city of monuments

Not far from the Taj Mahal, within its red sandstone walls, the Agra Fort houses the palaces of Akbar, Jahangir and Shah Jahan. The fort looks over the iconic marble mausoleum, the best view offered by the Musamman Burj, where Shah Jahan was locked up for eight years by son Aurangzeb. A famous miniature painting by Abanindranath Tagore called The Passing of Shah Jahan depicts a frail Shah Jahan at this very spot, looking wistfully at the Taj Mahal. When you see the same view almost 300 years later, you can feel the pathos that must have weighed upon a once powerful ruler, imprisoned by his own son. His only solace was a view of the Taj Mahal, an enduring symbol of his love for Mumtaz Mahal. In contrast to the stark and functional Agra Fort is Itmad-ud-Daulah, the jewel box-like tomb of Noor Jahan’s father Mirza Ghiyas Baig, built-in 1628. Every inch of it is adorned with dazzling pietra dura, a first for India at the time. Placed in the centre of a Mughal-style garden, this tomb supposedly served as the inspiration for the Taj.

In this city of grand tombs, another one manages to stand out for its beauty and import. Akbar’s tomb in Sikandara lies within 121 acres of sunken gardens, where blackbucks roam free and birdsong echoes in the lush surroundings. Yet another tomb rests in the shadow of the Taj. In the small, serene Roman Catholic Cemetery, is the mausoleum of Dutch trader John William Hessing, commissioned by his wife. Built from red sandstone, it is often referred to as the Red Taj.

Agra also has fine examples of architecture from other cultures. The Church of Pieta, also known as Akbar’s Church, in Civil Lines, was the first church built in Northern India by Jesuit priests on land gifted by Akbar. Elsewhere, in Dayalbagh, the Radha Soami temple, with its intricately carved marble pillars and arches, is ambitious in design and dimension, and has been under construction for over a hundred years!

Senses and the city

To navigate Agra’s historic quarters, I meet Tahir Ahmed, who along with his brother Kaleem and Neha Chaturvedi have set up Agra Heritage Walks. The trio leads me on a heady tour of the city’s cultural and culinary heritage.“You know you are in Rawat Pada when you begin to sneeze,” says Tahir, as we enter the spice lane, one in a warren of lanes in Old Town. From here, we head to Kashmiri Bazaar, where the nose-tickling aromas are replaced by the soothing smells of jasmine and khus in Lala Priya Dass & Sons’ Perfumers. The establishment has been around since the time of Aurangzeb and specialises in attars, perfumed oils and floral essences. Nearby, is a sensory treat of a different kind. Munna Lal Mithaiwale in Kinari Bazaar has been dishing out crisp bedais (lentil-stuffed flatbreads) and piping hot jalebis for the last 50 years. It is the go-to place for locals for an authentic “Agra ka nashta”, breakfast served old-fashioned, in sal leaf bowls. A short walk brings us to another local favourite, Chimman Lal Pooriwala. A grisly legend has it that during the uprising of 1857, pieces of masonry blown up by cannons landed in the hot oil vats and scalded the cooks and customers. An older, more palatable legacy is the recipe for their asafoetida-rich aloo sabzi and pillowy puris, which has remained unchanged since 1840. To book a Agra Heritage Walks, call 9015916355 or visit their Website

A trip to Agra must include a taste of its most famous sweet—the petha, cubes of ash gourd in sugar syrup. Though every other shop claims to sell the best petha, at the top of the chain is Munna Lal Agarwal, which churns out nearly 500kg of this sweet confection daily. After a day spent walking around the streets, you can sit back and enjoy local flavours in the luxurious environs of Agra’s star hotels. Mughal Pavilion at ITC Mughal Resort & Spa, Agra offers meals that showcase the city’s rich culinary history. “Our food has the simple, uncomplicated flavours of the Braj region where whole spices, hing and dairy are predominant,’’ says chef Rajveer Singh who belongs to the city and is well-versed in its food culture. Apart from regional vegetarian favourites like arbi and makhana jhol and kashiphal ki sabzi, there is an interesting selection of Mughlai food, which includes a hearty gosht pulao, believed to be a staple for artisans and workers who built the Taj. “In this city of grand tombs, another one manages to stand out for its beauty and import. Akbar’s tomb in Sikandara lies within 121 acres of sunken gardens, where blackbucks roam free and birdsong echoes in the lush surroundings”

A city of art

One of Agra’s hidden treasures is its community of artisans, who have kept its craft traditions alive. Like pachekari or inlay work, which was introduced to the city by empress Noor Jahan in the 1600s. At JK Cottage Industries, a row of craftsmen carve out delicate leaves and tendrils into coloured stones, while one man sits with a chisel to sculpt the design to be inlaid later. Plates and bowls are brought to life with flowers, birds and geometrical etchings and colourful semi- precious stones like coral and lapis lazuli. Elsewhere, Shams Embroidery produces beautiful zardozi and reshamdozi-embroidered wall panels and garments. “People have been working with us for generations. Their skill cannot be replaced by machines,’’ says Faizan Uddin, who is carrying on the legacy of his grandfather Shams Uddin, a Padma Shree awardee, who was also felicitated by American President Ronald Reagan.

While the old survives, new initiatives are infusing fresh spirit into the city’s bones. One of the most heartwarming of these is the Sheroes Hangout Cafe. This unique cafe set up by Delhi-based NGO, Chhanv Foundation, is run by acid attack survivors and is a space for coffee and conversations about acceptance for these women. And just like it did for them, Agra offers something for everyone. When you take your eyes off the mesmerising Taj, you will find a city rooted in culture and filled with hope for a tomorrow that takes its past into the future.

Plan your trip

Where to stay

The Oberoi Amarvilas, Agra
Enjoy spectacular views of the Taj from this luxury hotel that is a favourite with celebrities and heads of state. Doubles from Rs31,000. Website

ITC Mughal Resort & Spa, Agra
Check in for ample rooms, sprawling suites, superlative food and the luxurious Kaya Kalp spa, plus a view of the Taj. Doubles from Rs8,500. Website

Tajview, Agra-IHCL SeleQtions
For a room with a view of the world’s favourite monument. Doubles from Rs4,500. Website

Where to shop

JK Cottage Industries
For hand-crafted marble inlay souvenirs. Contact 9319108433

Shams Embroidery
For embroidered zardozi work product. Contact 9412543442. Instagram

Kalra Cottage Industry
For handwoven woollen and silk carpets with Persian and Mughal designs inspired by the region’s architecture. Website

India Leather House
For genuine leather goods from bags to belts. They also make bespoke leather jackets. Contact 9897177007. Website

Agrajain
For trendy Indo- western clothing as well as traditional wear inspired by Agra’s culture. Contact 7596888920. Website

ISOVI
For silver jewellery inspired by Agra’s heritage. Contact 8448024681. Website

Where to eat

Esphahan
At The Oberoi Amarvilas for a dinner witha view, and a modern take on Indian classics (tandoori chicken with 24kt gold and truffle butter)! Website

Mughal Pavilion 
At ITC Mughal Resort & Spa for a curated menu that incorporates vegetarian and non vegetarian dishes across Mughal and Braj cuisines. Website

Brijwasi Sweet House
For rich dairy sweets like rasmalai, rabri and khurchan. Contact 0562-2226591.

Munna Lal Mithaiwala
For their legendary bedai, jalebi and moong dal ka halwa. Contact 9997676769.

Viewing The Taj
The newly opened Taj Walkway, along the Yamuna, provides an unhindered view of the Taj Mahal. This is the route that emperor Shah Jahan used to enter his wife’s tomb. The Mehtaab Bagh is another great vantage point and the gardens were originally planned by Shah Jahan to enjoy the Taj on a moonlit night. Dussehra Ghat also offers a different view.