No road trip through Ireland would be complete without a stop in its culinary capital: Cork. Here's how to make the most of your limited time in the country's second city.
Where to Stay
If you only have one day in Cork, you need to stay where the action is. Right on the river (hence the name), this Doyle Collection hotel is within walking distance of most everything you'll want to see in the city. Spacious rooms feature modern design and floor-to-ceiling windows, so try to book a view of the water below, and if you end up with some extra time in your itinerary, stop by the in-house gym which boasts a 20-meter swimming pool and full schedule of classes, or grab a cocktail at Terrace on the Weir.
Morning
Start your day with cup of cocoa from Butler's. This Irish chain offers several varieties of the the house specialty (think marshmallow, almond, peppermint, and chili), alongside coffee, espresso drinks, and breakfast teas.
Once you're fully caffeinated, make your way to St. Anne's Church, a 15-minute walk from the chocolate shop. (Sensible shoes are a must for your time in Cork—a portion of the route is up a steep hill.) This early-18th century place of worship offers one of the best views of the city, but the real highlight is the Shandon Bells, which visitors are allowed to play. Pay the cash-only €5 admission fee, then head up to the first floor to ring the bells. After you've had your fill of music making (the church offers a book full of songs, so you can show off your skills) start climbing. Visitors who can make it up sometimes claustrophobia-inducing steps are rewarded with a 360-degree vista of Cork City below.
Right around the corner from the church is this nearly century-old candy shop, where they still make hard candies, marshmallows, and honeycomb by hand. It's the perfect place in Cork to pick up a sweet—and affordable—souvenir.
The Cork Butter Museum
Yep, it's a whole museum dedicated to the history of the butter trade. Need we say more?
Afternoon
In recent years, Cork has established itself as a culinary destination, and at the heart of the city's food scene is the English Market. The covered bazaar dates back to 1788, and features meat, spice, and produce traders as well as stalls selling clothes, knicknacks, chocolates, and more.
After perusing their wares, pop upstairs for lunch. Farmgate restaurant offers local delicacies like tripe and onions with drisheen, and lamb stew made with ingredients from the market and paired with a view of the bustling shopping center below.
On your way back from the church check out this local bookseller known for its shelves of signed and rare editions, Irish history books, and vintage maps.
Evening
Grab a drink.
Beer lovers have several options for a pre-dinner pint. Stop in Rising Sons Brewery's Brewpub to watch the game with a mug of their Steeple Amber Ale in hand. Or head to Franciscan Well, another local brewery, which offers tours and tastings starting at 6:30 p.m. Monday through Friday.
Dinner options are plentiful in Cork, but I recommend this Washington Street spot with a menu centered around the rotisserie. Try the chicken, which comes with the best stuffing I've ever had (sorry mom), and be sure to save room for dessert. The potted banoffee pie is a must.
If you're looking something with a bit more of a romantic feel, try Greenes. Located in a former warehouse in the historic Victorian Quarter, this modern Irish restaurant offers a seasonal tasting menu, designed to showcase ingredients from Cork County.
Listen to some traditional tunes.
After dinner, seek out some evening entertainment by way of The Lee Sessions, a nearly nightly series of traditional Irish music performances in pubs throughout the city center. Check out their gig schedule online right here.
The Next Day
Before you hit the road, stop in Nash 19, an airy restaurant and food shop just a few blocks away from the English Market, for breakfast. Order the scones—the pastry chef starts baking them at 6 a.m., or order something a bit heartier like The Real Corker, which includes not only bacon, sausage, and pudding, but also a grilled tomato, potato cake and toast for 10 euros.
As the digital director for Town & Country, Caroline Hallemann covers culture, entertainment, and a range of other subjects
