Why You Should Skip the French Riviera and Head to Normandy Instead

In its prewar heyday, Normandy’s northern coast was the go-to spot for fashionable Parisians looking for a weekend getaway. A two-hour train ride from Paris, Deauville and neighboring Trouville-sur-Mer—the relative grande dames of the region with their Belle Epoque–style villas, stately hotels, and stylish casinos—were and still remain the closest places to escape Paris’s stifling summer heat.

However, it was coastal Normandy’s general joie de vivre mentality that kept people coming back for more. A weekend in Deauville was to Paris what East Hampton is to New York City. Deauville was a place to let your hair down; gorge on the bounty of freshly caught seafood, cheeses, and apple brandy (local Norman delicacies); and imbibe with the best of them until the sun comes up. It’s no wonder F. Scott Fitzgerald had Tom and Daisy Buchanan spend part of their year in France here in The Great Gatsby.

Today, Normandy remains something of a time capsule of its former self. World War II and the D-Day invasion left an indelible mark on France’s northern coast, and while it doesn’t possess the same pizzazz of its Côte d’Azur neighbor to the south, it’s this sense of nostalgia, deeply rooted history, and idyllic landscapes that add a certain je ne sais quoi to the little pocket of life found in France’s northwest corner. Much like one of Claude Monet’s paintings, the rolling hills and lush meadows filled with half-timbered farmhouses throughout Normandy’s countryside are a furious swirl of colors and bucolic charm. It was these very landscapes that not only inspired some of the 20th century’s most important works, but have also continued to bring with them a steady mix of artists, writers, and aristocrats over the years.

With so much to see and do, from visiting the coastal seaside villages to sipping calvados in a 17th-century farmhouse in Honfleur and bearing witness to the majesty of Mont-Saint-Michel, here’s why you should skip the French Riviera and head to Normandy instead this summer:

Giverny to HonfleurAn hour outside of Paris, there’s no better place to start your Norman adventure than Giverny. The home of French impressionist Claude Monet, who lived and worked here until his death in 1926, the famed lily pond and Japanese bridge covered with wisteria and weeping willow are still intact, along with Monet’s house, all of which are available to tour. After you’ve perused the gardens, lunch in the Art Deco–inspired dining room of Les Jardins des Plumes is a must. Food imitates art here, where the dishes are as pretty as one of Monet’s luscious landscapes.

After lunch, it’s time to head north to the picturesque port town of Honfleur. Considered to be the birthplace of French impressionism, it was here that Gustave Courbet, Eugène Boudin, and Monet came to capture the light and brooding Norman skies over the Seine. A former fortress town and fishing village, Honfleur today still maintains much of its old-world charm. Take a stroll around Le Vieux Bassin (or Old Harbor) or lose yourself among the labyrinth of tiny streets. It’s worth a quick visit to Saint Catherine’s, France’s largest timber-built cathedral.

Once a sojourn for young artists in residence, Ferme Saint Simeon is a charming 17th-century inn and the perfect place to post up for the night. Enjoy a traditional-inspired dinner in the farmhouse-style dining room before retiring for a glass of locally distilled calvados, or apple liquor, a specialty in this region.

DeauvilleConsidered the “Riviera” of the north, the 25-mile stretch between Honfleur and Caen known as the Côte Fleurie (or “the flowered coast”) is a beautiful stretch of craggily coastline and gorgeous beachside towns adorned with Belle Epoque–style haunts and villas. Designed as luxury getaways for well-heeled Parisians at the turn of the last century, Deauville and neighboring Trouville-sur-Mer’s are the perfect places to soak in some seaside merriment. In additional to its beaches, Deauville is perhaps best known today for hosting the American Film Festival each year and its acclaimed horse racing culture.

Enjoy a leisurely stroll past the throngs of Technicolor beach umbrellas dotting Promenade des Planches before ordering a lobster salad and bottle of cider at Augusto Chez Laurent. With dozens of hotels to choose from, Hôtel Barrière Le Normandy has hosted everyone from Winston Churchill and Prince Charles to Coco Chanel and Kirk Douglas over the years. Madame Chanel loved Deauville so much that it was here she opened her first clothing store, in 1913.

A 30-minute ride down the coast, Le Grand Hôtel Cabourg is well worth a visit while you’re in town. French novelist Marcel Proust first gained inspiration for many of his later works including In Search of Lost Time. Enjoy dinner on the oceanfront terrace of Le Balbec or cocktails in the bar aptly named La Belle Époque.

Bayeux and Omaha BeachBegin by paying your respects to the fallen American soldiers at Omaha Beach. The D-Day invasion on June 6, 1944, is remembered as a major turning point in World War II, and the battle remains the largest seaborne invasion in history. Today, some 9,387 soldiers are buried in the Colleville-sur-Mer war cemetery. Afterward, head nearby to Port-en-Bessin-Huppain for lunch aboard Pays du Bessin and order the Fruits de Mer, a seafood tower that includes locally caught lobster, shrimp, spider crab, clams, Cancale oysters, and escargot.

Next, it’s off to the medieval city of Bayeux where a peek at the famous 230-foot-long tapestry is a must. Bayeux’s Gothic-style cathedral is also worth a visit. In the summertime, the cathedral comes alive with one of the most impressive light shows in France. Stay at Hôtel d’Argouges, a charming 18th-century townhouse complete with parquet floors and period decor, and don’t miss a chance to have breakfast and coffee in the hotel’s beautifully appointed garden before you go.

Mont-Saint-MichelAs you make your way over to Mont-Saint-Michel, a pit stop in Villedieu les Poêles—a town famous for its copper pots, pans, and housewares—is a must. As you continue on, stop by the village of Saint-James, where the eponymous Saint James L’Atelier flagship store is located, and pick up some of France’s original sailor stripes.

Dating back to 708, the island monastery of Mont-Saint-Michel is one of France’s most visited landmarks. It was transformed into a prison from 1793 to 1863 and subsequently used as everything from a military base to religious commune. Today, only a handful of nuns and monks reside on the island abbey, and it is easily one of the most beautiful architectural landmarks you’ll ever set foot on. For a little something sweet on the way up, head to Crêperie La Sirène for traditional Breton galette (buckwheat pancake). Alternatively, La Mère Poulard Café has been a Mont-Saint-Michel mainstay since it opened in 1888 and is renowned for its open-fire-cooked omelets and local delicacies including salt marsh lamb and apple cider.

While there are several hotels to choose from in the area, you need to head a little bit out of town if you want to avoid the tourist crowds. Tonight, treat yourself like royalty with a stay at Château de Chantore, an 18th-century castle built in the style of Louis XIII. With views of Mont-Saint-Michel in the distance, it’s the perfect place to bid adieu to Normandy in style.