SXVF-M25C handbook - Starlight Xpress
SXVF-M25C handbook - Starlight Xpress
SXVF-M25C handbook - Starlight Xpress
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
<strong>Starlight</strong> <strong>Xpress</strong> Ltd<br />
SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> SuperHAD 6Megapixel USB<br />
One-Shot Colour CCD camera<br />
User manual<br />
Thank you for purchasing a <strong>Starlight</strong> <strong>Xpress</strong> CCD camera. We hope that you will be<br />
very satisfied with the results.<br />
The SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> is an advanced, very high-resolution cooled CCD camera, especially<br />
designed for ‘One-Shot’ colour astronomical imaging. The features include a built-in,<br />
fully programmable, USB 2 super-fast computer interface (USB 1.1 compatible), an<br />
optional add-on autoguider output and integrated dual serial ports for filter wheel and<br />
telescope control. The SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> uses a Sony ICX413AQ a very large ‘SuperHAD’<br />
interline CCD, with 3040 x 2016 x 7.8uM pixels in a 23.4 x 15.6mm active area.<br />
SuperHAD devices have excellent quantum efficiency in the visible spectrum, with a<br />
broad spectral response peaking at around 60% in the green, and an extremely low<br />
dark current, well below that of any comparable CCD currently available. The CCD<br />
incorporates a ‘Bayer Matrix’ of Red, Green and Blue filters, deposited directly onto<br />
the pixels and a downloaded image may be quickly converted into a full-colour<br />
picture by application of the software provided.<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
The USB 2 connection offers an excellent download speed, despite the very large<br />
number of pixels to be digitised. The full-frame download time with a 2GHz machine<br />
is approximately 16 seconds and binned 4x4 downloads take only 3 seconds, so<br />
finding and centring are quick and easy in this mode. If you have only a USB 1.1<br />
connection on your computer, the download time is longer, but is still quite fast at<br />
around 30 seconds for a full resolution frame.<br />
Please take a few minutes to study the contents of this manual, which will help you to<br />
get the camera into operation quickly and without problems. I am sure that you want<br />
to see some results as soon as possible, so please move on to the ‘Quick Start’ section,<br />
which follows. A more detailed description of imaging techniques will be found in a<br />
later part of this manual.<br />
‘Quick Starting’ your SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> system<br />
In the shipping container you will find the following items:<br />
1) The SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> camera head.<br />
2) A power supply module.<br />
3) A power supply cable.<br />
4) An SXV guider head.<br />
5) A cable for the guider head to camera connection.<br />
6) An RJ11 cable for connection of the guide output to the mount.<br />
7) A USB2 camera cable.<br />
8) An adaptor for 2” drawtubes and M42 Pentax thread lenses.<br />
9) A disk with the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> control software.<br />
10) This manual.<br />
Optional extra items include:<br />
1) A serial port splitter adaptor and cable for filter wheels etc.<br />
You will also need a PC computer with Windows 98, Windows Me, Windows 2000<br />
or Windows XP installed (NOT Windows 95 or NT4). This machine must have at<br />
least one USB port available and at least 128 Megs of memory. If you intend to view<br />
the finished images on its screen, then you will also need a graphics card capable of<br />
displaying an image with a minimum of 1024 x 768 pixels and 16,000,000 colours.<br />
The very large image format means that viewing the entire image at full resolution is<br />
not practical, but a 1600 x 1200 monitor resolution with 32 bit colour helps<br />
considerably. A medium specification Pentium with between 1 and 2GHz processor<br />
speed is ideal. USB 2 PCI and PCMCIA cards are readily available for upgrading a<br />
USB 1.1 machine, if you want to achieve the best possible performance. Please note<br />
that USB 2.0 operates at a very high speed and cannot operate over very long cables.<br />
Five metres of good quality cable is the maximum normally permitted. Adding one, or<br />
more, USB 2 ‘Hubs’ in line can extend this, if necessary. USB 1.1 is more tolerant<br />
and will often work properly over a 15 metre lead without hubs.<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
Installing the USB system:<br />
First, find a free USB socket on your PC and plug in the USB cable. If you do not<br />
have a USB capable computer, it is normally possible to install a USB 2 card into an<br />
expansion slot. Almost all machines manufactured after 1996 provide a pair of USB<br />
1.1 sockets on the rear panel and either of these may be used if USB 1.1 is<br />
satisfactory. Please note that it may be necessary to enable your USB system in the<br />
computer BIOS (the SETUP menu which can usually be accessed at start-up). Many<br />
BIOS systems have the ability to disable ‘Plug and Play’ devices, such as the USB<br />
ports, so please make sure that these are enabled.<br />
The next operation is to run the USB installer from the CD ROM provided. Insert the<br />
CD into the computer and run the ‘InstallSXV’ file which is found in the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong><br />
directory. This will install the following files:<br />
1) ‘SXV_BlockIO_<strong>M25C</strong>.inf’ in C:\Windows\Inf\<br />
2) ‘Generic.sys’ and ‘SXVIO.sys’ in C:\Windows\System32\Drivers\<br />
If you cannot see the directories ‘C:\Windows\Inf’ and ‘Windows\System32\Drivers’,<br />
this will be due to the setup of your Windows Explorer software. In this case, go to<br />
the ‘Tools’ menu, followed by ‘Folder Options’ and select ‘View’. Now select ‘Show<br />
hidden files and folders’ and make sure that the ‘Hide file extensions for known file<br />
types’ and ‘Hide protected operating system files’ check boxes are NOT checked.<br />
After this, the various directories and files should be visible.<br />
It is now time to set up the USB device. Plug the USB cable into the camera and<br />
observe the computer screen. After a brief delay, you should see an information box,<br />
which reports that the computer has found a device called ‘Echo2’ and is looking for<br />
the driver. If all is well, the cycle will complete within a couple of seconds, but it is<br />
possible that you may have to prompt the system with the location of the ‘SXVIO.sys’<br />
file (Windows\System32\Drivers). After another brief delay, the computer should say<br />
that it has found a new USB2.0 device and is installing a ‘<strong>Starlight</strong> <strong>Xpress</strong> USB 2.0<br />
CCD camera’. In some cases the installation will halt after the first stage and you will<br />
need to restart the machine, or unplug and re-plug the USB lead to initiate the second<br />
step.<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
At the end of this process, the USB interface will be installed as a ‘BlockIOClass<br />
device’ and the camera software will be able to access it. You can confirm that the<br />
installation is complete by checking the status of the USB devices in the Windows<br />
‘Device Manager’ (see above). Start up the Windows ‘Control Panel’ and select<br />
‘System’. Now click on the tab labelled ‘Device Manager’ and all of the system<br />
devices will be displayed in a list (see above). If the installation is successful, there<br />
will be a diamond shaped symbol labelled ‘BlockIOClass’ and clicking on the ‘+’<br />
sign will reveal it to be a ‘<strong>Starlight</strong> <strong>Xpress</strong> USB 2.0 SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> camera driver’ or<br />
similar. If this device is faulty, try clicking on it and selecting ‘properties’ and then<br />
‘update driver’. Following the on screen instructions will allow you to re-select the<br />
correct inf file (SXV_BlockIO_<strong>M25C</strong>.inf) and driver file (SXVIO.sys), which should<br />
fix the problem.<br />
Adding the camera control software:<br />
Now that the USB system is installed, the camera control program can be used to<br />
operate your SXV-<strong>M25C</strong>. Copy the camera software files from the CD and paste<br />
them into a suitable directory, such as ‘SXVM25’ on your computer’s C: drive. Your<br />
directory should contain the files SXV_<strong>M25C</strong>_usb.exe, SXV_M25.hlp, bwcc32.dll<br />
and wsc32.dll<br />
Connecting the camera:<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
The camera rear panel<br />
Connect up the power supply and switch it on. You can start the ‘SXV_<strong>M25C</strong>’<br />
software by double clicking on the icon and you should see the main menu and image<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
panel appear. If the USB connection is OK, a message box will inform you of the<br />
‘Handle’ number for the SXVIO interface and various other version details etc. The<br />
main program window will now be seen.<br />
If you press the ‘Camera’ Icon button at the top left, the program will warn you that<br />
the ‘Program Defaults’ have not been set, but pressing ‘OK’ will allow you to<br />
continue.<br />
The camera default settings are not important for current purposes and may be left as<br />
the software start-up values for now, but the warning message may be removed by<br />
selecting ‘Set program defaults’ from the ‘File’ menu and then saving the defaults<br />
window by pressing the ‘Save changes’ button. Once the camera control panel is seen,<br />
you are all set to take your first images!<br />
Recording your first image:<br />
We now have the camera and computer set up to take pictures, but an optical system<br />
is needed to project an image onto the CCD surface. You could use your telescope,<br />
but this introduces additional complications, which are best avoided at this early<br />
stage. There are two simple options, at least one of which is available to everyone:<br />
1) Attach a standard ‘M42’ SLR camera lens to the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong>, using the 25mm<br />
spacer to achieve the correct focal distance.<br />
Or<br />
2) Create a ‘Pin hole’ lens by sticking a sheet of aluminium baking foil over the end<br />
of the 2” adaptor and pricking its centre with a small pin.<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
If you use a normal lens, then stop it down to the smallest aperture number possible<br />
(usually F22) as this will minimise focus problems and keep the light level reasonable<br />
for daytime testing. The pin hole needs no such adjustments and will work<br />
immediately, although somewhat fuzzily.<br />
Point the camera + lens or pinhole towards a well-lit and clearly defined object some<br />
distance away. Now click on the camera icon in the SXV_<strong>M25C</strong> software tool bar.<br />
The camera control interface will open.<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
You can now select an exposure time of 0.1 seconds, followed by pressing of the<br />
‘Take Photo’ button.<br />
After the exposure and download have completed (about 16 seconds) an image of<br />
some kind will appear on the computer monitor. It will probably be poorly focused<br />
and incorrectly exposed, but any sort of image is better than none! In the case of the<br />
pinhole, all that you can experiment with is the exposure time, but a camera lens can<br />
be adjusted for good focus and so you might want to try this to judge the image<br />
quality that it is possible to achieve. With our 2 inch adaptor, most lenses come to<br />
infinity focus at about midway through their normal focus adjustment range. The<br />
large size of full resolution M25 images makes them difficult to visualise on most<br />
computer screens and only about one third of the image may be visible. You can<br />
‘scroll’ around the image using the sliders at the right and bottom edges, or select ‘Bin<br />
high res. display’, as found in the ‘View’ menu. This reduces the displayed image to<br />
half size and most of it will now be visible – the image data is NOT affected.<br />
Various other exposure options are available, as can be seen in the picture of the<br />
interface above. For example, you can ‘Bin’ the download 2x2, or more, to achieve<br />
greater sensitivity and faster download, or enable ‘Continuous mode’ to see a steady<br />
stream of images. The 4x4 or 6x4 binning modes give adequate resolution for finding<br />
and offer a much faster download speed, along with a very high sensitivity.<br />
‘Focus mode’ downloads a 128 x 128 segment of the image at high speed. The initial<br />
position of the segment is central to the frame, but can be moved by selecting ‘Focus<br />
frame centre’ in the ‘File’ menu and clicking the desired point with the mouse. The<br />
focus window has an adjustable ‘contrast stretch’, controlled by the 12-16 bit slider.<br />
The image will be normal if 16 bits is selected, while setting lower values will<br />
increase the image brightness in inverse proportion.<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
Please note that ONLY 1x1 binned images will decode to colour – the other modes<br />
are for focusing and acquisition only.<br />
If you cannot record any kind of image, please check the following points:<br />
1) Ensure that the power indicator lamp is on and that the cables are properly home<br />
in their sockets.<br />
2) If the screen is completely white, the image may be greatly overexposed. Try a<br />
shorter exposure time, or stop down your lens. See if covering the lens causes the<br />
image to darken.<br />
3) If the USB did not initialise properly, the camera start-up screen will tell you that<br />
the connection is defective. Try switching off the power supply and unplugging the<br />
USB cable. Now plug in the USB cable, followed by the power. This will re-load<br />
the USB software and may fix the problem after restarting the SXV_<strong>M25C</strong><br />
program. Otherwise, check the device driver status, as previously described, and<br />
re-install any drivers which appear to be defective.<br />
4) If you cannot find any way of making the camera work, please try using it with<br />
another computer. This will confirm that the camera is OK, or faulty, and you can<br />
then decide how to proceed. Our guarantee ensures that any electrical faults are<br />
corrected quickly and at no cost to the customer.<br />
Converting your image to colour:<br />
Once you have a recognisable image, it is quite easy to convert it to full colour. The<br />
‘raw’ image will appear to have a fine grid distributed across it – this is the colour<br />
filter matrix and the variations of pixel brightness encode the colour data which we<br />
want to extract. Here is an enlarged section of a raw image:<br />
Click on ‘Colour Synthesis’ in the main menu and you will see the synthesiser dialog.<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
This includes various options for correcting the colour synthesis for variations in the<br />
lighting conditions, filters etc. Briefly, these items perform the following functions:<br />
1) Daylight Image? – If an unfiltered lens is used, the infra-red content of the<br />
light will tend to produce a Green – Blue shift in the balance. A partial<br />
correction of this bias is provided by selecting this option, but the best option<br />
is to use an infra-red blocking filter when taking daylight shots (see 5 below).<br />
2) Light Pollution Correction: - This option is for deep sky colour images,<br />
where a strong colour bias is often present in the sky background. This option<br />
attempts to return the background colour to a neutral grey.<br />
3) Colour Smoothing Filter: - Applies a low pass filter to the colour data to<br />
smooth out colour noise.<br />
4) Apply Anti-Alias: - Runs a special filter over the colour data to remove<br />
coloured artefacts around sharp edges. This is especially useful for cleaning up<br />
erratically coloured star images.<br />
5) IR Filter Used? – Sets the colour balance to allow for the loss of infra-red<br />
content when using an IR blocking filter.<br />
6) Stretching: - A selection of contrast-boosting options which are preset for<br />
various subjects.<br />
7) Remove Background: - This option will adjust the sky background brightness<br />
to give an optimum background level.<br />
8) High Pass filters: - Automatically sharpen the luminance data to emphasise<br />
fine details. Most useful for sharpening planetary images but will also increase<br />
the noise content.<br />
For your first test images, I suggest that you turn on the Anti-Alias option and<br />
possibly the ‘Daylight Image’ option.<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
Now press the ‘Create Image’ button. After a couple of seconds, your raw mono<br />
image will be replaced by a full colour version.<br />
If the colour is roughly correct, then all is well. However, the colour decoding is<br />
reliant on the filter pattern being properly registered with the processing software and<br />
this can vary. If the colour is badly wrong, try opening the ‘Set program defaults’<br />
dialog box and altering the ‘Pixel’ and ‘Line’ offsets. Reload the raw file and try<br />
synthesis again. If it’s still not right, experiment with just a pixel offset or just a line<br />
offset until the colour is good.<br />
There is every reason to expect that the image will be reasonably well colour<br />
balanced, but if it is not, you can adjust the colour in the ‘Set Colour Balance’ dialog<br />
box (Under ‘Colour’ in the main menu).<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
The colour balance controls seem complex, but are really quite easy to use. The most<br />
useful controls are the ‘Start’ and ‘Saturation Factor’ settings. Saturation factor will<br />
simply vary the colour intensity, without any alteration of the colour balance, but the<br />
‘Start’ settings for each colour will alter the colour rendering of the dimmer parts of<br />
the image. As most astronomical images are badly affected by light pollution, which<br />
affects the dimmer background colours in particular, the start point settings are<br />
particularly helpful for correcting this. If you move the start point of the Red<br />
histogram a few points to the right and click on ‘Apply’, the new image will have<br />
LESS red in the background and will appear more Cyan. Similarly, if you move the<br />
Green start point to the right, the image will appear more Magenta and moving the<br />
blue start point will turn it more Yellow. Do not move the start points beyond the start<br />
of the main burst of histogram data, or you will introduce colour errors into low<br />
saturation parts of the image. Just move the sliders by small amounts in the clear area<br />
below the main peak, until the background is nicely balanced.<br />
In some cases, the histograms may all start a long way above zero (usually in astro.<br />
images with a lot of light pollution). In this case, slide the start point settings for all<br />
colours until they are equally distant from the beginning of the colour data, but quite<br />
close to it. This will both correct the colour balance (apart from any fine tweaks) and<br />
increase the colour saturation.<br />
In some images, the colour data may be balanced differently in the highlights and<br />
shadows. For example, the dark areas may be quite neutral in colour, but the<br />
highlights may be bluish in tint. This indicates a ‘slope error’ in one or more colours<br />
and, in this example it is caused by the blue data increasing too quickly when<br />
compared with the red and green data. To correct for this, the other histogram sliders<br />
may be used as slope adjusters. In the case of the excess blue, try increasing the top<br />
end (Max) value to greater than 255 (300 max is allowed). This will reduce the blue<br />
slope and result in a more yellowish rendition. Alternatively, you can increase both<br />
the red and green slopes by setting the upper red and green sliders below 255.<br />
Other image enhancements:<br />
Your first image may be satisfactory, but it is unlikely to be as clear and sharp as it<br />
could be. Improved focusing and exposure timing may correct these shortcomings,<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
and you may like to try them before applying any image enhancement with the<br />
software. However, there will come a point when you say, “That’s the best that I can<br />
get” and you will want to experiment with the effects of image processing. In the case<br />
of daylight images, the processing options are many, but there are few that will<br />
improve the picture in a useful way. The most useful of these are the ‘Normal<br />
Contrast Stretch’, ‘Power law stretch’ and the ‘High Pass Low Power’ filter.<br />
The ‘Contrast’ routines are used to brighten (or dull) the image highlights and<br />
shadows. A ‘Normal’ stretch is a simple linear operation, where two pointers (the<br />
‘black’ and ‘white’ limits) can be set at either side of the image histogram and used to<br />
define new start and end points. The image data is then mathematically modified so<br />
that any pixels that are to the left of the ‘black’ pointer are set to black and any pixels<br />
to the right of the ‘white’ pointer are set to white. The pixels with values between the<br />
pointers are modified to fit the new brightness distribution. Try experimenting with<br />
the pointer positions until the image has a pleasing brightness and ‘crispness’. Most<br />
daylight pictures suffer from having too much ‘Gamma’ (a way of referring to the<br />
contrast response curve) and look unnaturally contrasty. Applying a ‘Power law’<br />
stretch of about 0.5 power will often make them look better, although you will<br />
probably need to follow this with a ‘Normal’ stretch to darken the shadow regions.<br />
The high pass filter gives a moderate improvement in the image sharpness, and this<br />
can be very effective on daylight images. Too much high pass filtering results in dark<br />
borders around well-defined features and will increase the noise in an image to<br />
unacceptable levels, but the Low Power filter is close to optimum and gives a nicely<br />
sharpened picture, as above.<br />
At this point, you will have a working knowledge of how to take and process an SXV-<br />
<strong>M25C</strong> image. It is time to move on to astronomical imaging, which has its own<br />
unique set of problems!<br />
*********************************************************************<br />
Astronomical Imaging with the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong><br />
1) Getting the image onto the CCD:<br />
The SXV-M25 has a very large CCD chip and this will not work well with many<br />
commonly available telescopes, such as Schmidt-Cassegrain and Newtonian<br />
reflectors. At the very least, the corners of the image will be severely vignetted by the<br />
narrow optical path and you are likely to see just a round ‘porthole’ in the middle of<br />
the image field. As you are the owner of an M25, I am assuming that you already<br />
have a suitable optical system available, but as a general guideline, a short focus<br />
apochromatic refractor is an ideal choice. Many of these are expensive, but are<br />
essential if you are to achieve top quality results. I use a Takahashi FSQ106 (106mm<br />
aperture, 500mm focal length), but the Sky90 and Televue NP101 are other excellent<br />
choices. You need a well corrected flat field which has been designed to cover at least<br />
a 35mm film frame – preferably a 57mm format frame. Some high quality camera<br />
lenses will give good results, but many of these have poor infra-red and UV<br />
correction that can cause halos around bright stars and result in soft images. An<br />
IR/UV blocking filter can help a great deal, at some cost to sensitivity, and the IDAS<br />
light pollution rejection filter will perform this task very well. I recommend the IDAS<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
filter for the reduction of light pollution and aberration effects and it is a valuable<br />
accessory to any imaging system.<br />
It is fairly easy to find the correct focus setting for the camera when using a standard<br />
SLR lens, but quite a different matter when the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> is attached to a telescope!<br />
The problem is that most telescopes have a large range of focus adjustment and the<br />
CCD needs to be quite close to the correct position before you can discern details well<br />
enough to optimise the focus setting. Fortunately, the relatively short focal length and<br />
wide field of view associated with suitable telescopes for the M25, makes this easier<br />
than with longer focus systems and smaller CCD chips. Attach the M25 to your<br />
optical system with either a T thread adaptor or by clamping to the 2 inch diameter<br />
nose piece provided with the camera. Any filters should be at least 48mm in diameter<br />
and mounted just ahead of the camera (or on the objective, where appropriate).<br />
As a guide, most CCD astronomers try to maintain an image scale of about 2 arc<br />
seconds per pixel for deep sky images. This matches the telescope resolution to the<br />
CCD resolution and avoids ‘undersampling’ the image, which can result in square<br />
stars and other unwanted effects. To calculate the focal length required for this<br />
condition to exist, you can use the following simple equation:<br />
F = Pixel size * 205920 / Resolution (in arc seconds)<br />
In the case of the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> and a 2 arc seconds per pixel resolution, we get<br />
F = 0.0074 * 205920 / 2 = 761mm<br />
This is a very rough guide and so the 500mm FSQ is well suited, as are most other<br />
short focus refractors.<br />
Achieving a good focus:<br />
Point the telescope at a bright star and focus the optics to an estimate of the correct<br />
focus position. A good way to determine this is to space a sheet of frosted glass,<br />
plastic or grease-proofed paper about 18mm behind the drawtube aperture and focus<br />
for a sharp star image on the screen. Substituting the camera for the screen will put a<br />
fairly well focused star image onto the CCD.<br />
The SXV_<strong>M25C</strong> has a focus routine that will repeatedly download and display a 128<br />
x 128 pixel segment of the image at relatively high speed. This focus window may be<br />
positioned anywhere in the camera field and can be displayed with an adjustable<br />
degree of automatic contrast stretching (for focusing on faint stars). To use this mode,<br />
start up the software and select the SXV camera interface (File menu). Set the camera<br />
mode to Binned 4x4 and select an exposure time of 1 second. Press ‘Take Picture’ and<br />
wait for the image to download. There is a good chance that your selected star will<br />
appear somewhere within the image frame and it should be close to a sharp focus. If<br />
the focus is still poor, then it may appear as a pale disk of light, often with a dark<br />
centre (the secondary mirror shadow in an SCT, or Newtonian). Now select the ‘File’<br />
menu again and click on ‘Focus frame centre’; you can now use the mouse pointer to<br />
click on the star image and the new focus frame co-ordinates will be displayed. Now<br />
return to the camera interface window and click on ‘Start’ in the Focus frame. The<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
computer will now display a continuous series of 128 x 128 pixel images in the focus<br />
window and you should see your selected star appear somewhere close to the centre.<br />
A ‘peak value’ (the value of the brightest pixel) will also be shown in the adjacent text<br />
box and this can be used as an indication of the focus accuracy. Although the peak<br />
value is sensitive to vibration and seeing, it tends towards a maximum as the focus is<br />
optimised. Carefully adjust the focus control on your telescope until the image is as<br />
sharp as possible and the peak value reaches a maximum. Wait for any vibration to<br />
die down before accepting the reading as reliable and watch out for bursts of bad<br />
seeing, which reduce the apparent focus quality. Quite often, the peak value will<br />
increase to the point where it is ‘off scale’ at 4095 and in this case you must halt the<br />
focus sequence and select a shorter exposure if you wish to use the peak value as an<br />
indicator. Once you have determined the position of best focus, you might like to<br />
mark the drawtube barrel so that the correct setting can be found quickly in future.<br />
Although you can reach a good focus by the above method, many observers prefer to<br />
use additional aids, such as Hartmann masks (an objective cover with two or three<br />
spaced holes) or diffraction bars (narrow parallel rods across the telescope aperture).<br />
These make the point of precise focus easier to determine by creating ‘double images’<br />
or bright diffraction spikes around stars, which merge at the setting of exact focus.<br />
The 12-16 bit slider control allows you to adjust the contrast of the focus frame for<br />
best visibility of the star image. It defaults to maximum stretch (12 bits), which is<br />
generally ideal for stars, but a lower stretch value is better for focusing on planets.<br />
Taking your first astronomical image:<br />
I will assume that you are now set up with a focused camera attached to a telescope<br />
with an operating sidereal drive. If so, you are now in a position to take a moderately<br />
long exposure of some interesting deep-sky astronomical object. As most drives are<br />
not very accurate beyond a minute or two of exposure time, I suggest that you find a<br />
fairly bright object to image, such as M42, M13, M27 or M57. There are many others<br />
to choose from, but these are good examples.<br />
Use the finder to align on your chosen object and then centre accurately by using the<br />
focus frame and a short exposure of between 1 and 5 seconds. The ’12-16 bit’ slider<br />
in the focus frame allows you to adjust the image contrast if you find that the object is<br />
too faint with a short exposure. Once properly centred and focused, take an exposure<br />
of about 60 seconds, and observe the result. Initially, the image may appear rather<br />
barren and show only a few stars, however, there is a great deal of data hidden from<br />
view. You can get to see a lot of this, without affecting the image data, if you go to<br />
the ‘View’ menu and select ‘Auto Contrast Stretch Image’. The faint image data will<br />
then appear in considerable detail and I think that you will be impressed by the result!<br />
If you are happy with the image, go to the ‘File’ menu and save it as a Tiff file in a<br />
convenient directory.<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
M42 from a 5 minute exposure at F5 with the FSQ106 + IDAS filter<br />
Most competitive brands of CCD camera require a ‘dark frame’ to be subtracted from<br />
your images to achieve the best results. A dark frame is simply a picture which was<br />
taken with the same exposure as your ‘light frame’, but with the telescope objective<br />
covered, so that no light can enter. It records only the ‘hot pixels’ and thermal<br />
gradients of your CCD, so that these defects are largely removed when the dark frame<br />
is subtracted from the light frame. The SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> CCD is quite different from those<br />
used in other brands of camera and generates an extremely low level of dark noise.<br />
Indeed, it is so low that subtracting a dark frame can actually INCREASE the noise in<br />
your images! This is because the statistical noise of the dark frame can exceed the<br />
‘pattern noise’ from warm pixels and hence add to that of the subtracted result. If your<br />
test pictures have an exposure time of less than about 30 minutes (as above), then<br />
don’t bother with a dark frame, just ‘kill’ any hot pixels with your processing<br />
software. In SXV-<strong>M25C</strong>, the ‘Median filter’ can do this, but other software (e.g.<br />
Maxim DL) will provide a ‘hot pixel killer’ that can be mapped to specific locations<br />
in the image.<br />
If you feel that dark frame really is necessary, please proceed as follows:<br />
To take a dark frame, just cover the telescope objective with the lens cap and take<br />
another exposure of the same length as that of the light frame. This image will be a<br />
picture of the dark signal generated during your exposure and it should be saved with<br />
your image for use in processing the picture. If many such darks are recorded and<br />
averaged together, the statistical noise will be reduced, but the gains to be had are<br />
rather small compared with the effort involved.<br />
As variations in ambient temperature will affect the dark signal, it is best to take the<br />
dark frames within a few minutes of capturing your images. For the same reason, it is<br />
not wise to use ‘old’ dark frames if you want the best possible results, however, some<br />
software allows you to scale library dark frames to match the image (e.g. AstroArt<br />
and Maxim DL) and this can be useful as a time saver.<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
‘Flat fields’ are often recommended for optimising the results from your CCD<br />
camera. The purpose of a flat field is to compensate for uneven illumination and<br />
sensitivity of the CCD. In the case of the very large chip of the SXV-M25, it is likely<br />
that you will need to use flats to eliminate optical vignetting and so it is a good idea to<br />
get used to taking and using them. There are several ways that a flat field can be<br />
recorded, but it surprisingly difficult to generate a ‘perfect’ flat field image. In<br />
essence, you need to take a picture of an evenly illuminated surface so that the<br />
resulting picture contains only the dust shadows and optical shading of the CCD field.<br />
This can then be divided into the image data and used to cancel out the defects.<br />
Achieving the even illumination necessary for a good flat field is quite difficult. Some<br />
users construct a special ‘light box’ to drop over the objective of the ‘scope and this is<br />
probably the best method, but some easier techniques will work. One common<br />
method is to stretch a white fabric sheet across the telescope aperture and take an<br />
image of the daylight sky with this in place. A white ‘Tee shirt’ is the classic item for<br />
use as a diffuser and so such a flat is often known as a ‘Tee shirt flat’.<br />
Flat fields are images, which display only the variations of illumination and<br />
sensitivity of the CCD and are used to mathematically modify a wanted image in such<br />
a way that the errors are removed. Common flat field errors are due to dust motes on<br />
the camera window and vignetting effects in the optical system of the telescope. Dust<br />
motes act as ‘inverse pinholes’ and cast out-of-focus images of the telescope aperture<br />
onto the CCD chip, where they appear as shadow ‘do-nuts’. Most optical systems<br />
show some vignetting at the edges of the field, especially when focal reducers are<br />
used. This causes a brighter centre to show in images, especially when there is a lot of<br />
sky light to illuminate the field.<br />
If dust motes are your main problem, it is best to clean the camera window, rather<br />
than to rely on a flat field to remove the do-nuts. Flat fields always increase the noise<br />
in an image and so physical dust removal is the best option. If you have serious<br />
vignetting, first check whether the optical system can be improved.<br />
If you really do need to use a flat field for image correction, then it must be taken with<br />
care. It is most important that the optical system MUST NOT be disturbed between<br />
taking your original images and taking the flat field. Any relative changes of focus<br />
and rotation etc. will upset the match between flat field and image and the result will<br />
be poor correction of the errors.<br />
Most imaging sessions begin or end in twilight and so the dusk or dawn sky can<br />
provide a distributed source of light for a flat field. However, using the sky directly is<br />
likely to result in recording many unwanted stars, or patches of cloud etc., so a<br />
diffuser needs to be added to the telescope. A Tee shirt can be used, but an ideal<br />
material is Mylar plastic drafting film, obtained from an office supplies warehouse. It<br />
is strong and water resistant and can be easily replaced if damaged. Stretch a piece of<br />
the film loosely across the aperture of your telescope and point the instrument high in<br />
the sky, to avoid any gradient in the light near the horizon. Now take several images<br />
with exposure times adjusted to give a bright, but not overloaded, picture. A<br />
histogram peaking at around 128 is ideal. Averaging flat fields together is a good way<br />
to reduce their noise contribution and so recording 4, or more, images is a good idea.<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
To use your flat fields, they must first have a dark frame subtracted. Although this<br />
may appear to be unimportant with such brightly lit and short exposures, there is the<br />
‘bias offset’ of the camera in each image and this can produce an error in the final<br />
correction. As we are mainly interested in the bias, any very short exposure dark<br />
frame will give a good result. The dark subtracted images should then be averaged<br />
together before use.<br />
After the above procedures have been executed, the flat field will be ready for use.<br />
Load up your image for processing, subtract the dark frame and then select ‘Apply<br />
flat field’ in the ‘Merge’ menu. The result should be an image with very few signs of<br />
the original artefacts and you can then process it in the normal way<br />
Processing a deep-sky image:<br />
The following instructions include the subtraction of a dark frame, but this may be<br />
regarded as optional.<br />
1) Make sure the ‘Auto Contrast Stretch’ is switched off and load your image into the<br />
SXV_<strong>M25C</strong> program. Select ‘Merge’ and then ‘Subtract Dark Frame’. Pick the<br />
appropriate dark frame and the software will then remove the dark signal from your<br />
image, leaving it somewhat darker and slightly smoother than before.<br />
2) The next step is to process the image into colour, but you may find that the<br />
application of a gentle contrast stretch to the image before synthesis will improve the<br />
colour result. Don’t overdo the stretch, as the colour range can then exceed the<br />
dynamic range available, leading to un-correctable colour errors. Keep a copy of the<br />
original file – just in case! Set the colour synthesiser to apply the anti-alias filter and<br />
then run it.<br />
3) The resulting image will probably still look faint and dull, with a pale orange or<br />
green background due to light pollution. Try using the ‘Start point’ adjustment in the<br />
Colour balance menu to get something close to a neutral background colour. It is now<br />
time to process the ‘luminance’ (brightness and contrast) of the image to get the best<br />
visual appearance. First, use the ‘Normal’ contrast stretch to darken the background<br />
by setting the ‘Black’ slider just below the main peak of the histogram. Alternatively,<br />
you can use the ‘Remove Background’ icon button to let the software decide on the<br />
best setting. This will greatly reduce the background brightness and the image will<br />
begin to look rather more attractive, if dark. You can now try brightening the<br />
highlights with another ‘Normal’ stretch, in which you bring down the ‘White’ slider<br />
to just above the main image peak. The best setting for this is rather more difficult to<br />
guess and you may need several attempts before the result is ideal. Just use the ‘Undo<br />
last filter’ function, if necessary, to correct a mistake. In many cases, a ‘Normal’<br />
contrast stretch will give a good result, but may ‘burn out’ the bright regions and<br />
leave the faint parts of the image rather lacking in brightness. To combat this, many<br />
imagers will use a combination of ‘Normal’ and ‘Non-linear’ contrast stretches. The<br />
best settings are different for different objects, but performing a non-linear or power<br />
law stretch, followed by normalising the background to black with a normal stretch, is<br />
the usual procedure.<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
4) The image will now look quite impressive and I hope that you are pleased with<br />
your first efforts!<br />
Further small refinements are usually possible and you will become expert at judging<br />
the best way to achieve these as your experience increases. As a rough guide, the<br />
‘Filters’ menu can be used to sharpen, soften or noise reduce the image. Strong ‘High<br />
Pass’ filters are usually not a good idea with deep sky images, as the noise will be<br />
strongly increased and dark rings will appear around the stars, but a ‘Median’ filter<br />
can remove odd speckles (hot pixels) and a mild ‘Unsharp Mask’ (Radius 3, Power 1)<br />
will sharpen without too much increase in noise. If you have a copy of ‘Paint Shop<br />
Pro’, the ‘Edge preserving smooth’ filter will work rather well as a noise reducer and<br />
the ‘Despeckle’ filter will remove warm pixels quite effectively. To use these, export<br />
your image as a Tiff file so that Paint Shop can accept it. Paint Shop (or Photo Shop)<br />
also provides a convenient way of cropping, rotating and printing your finished<br />
images. The following examples are typical of 40 minute exposures at F5, using an<br />
IDAS filter on an FSQ106.<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
Other things to try include summing several images for a better signal to noise ratio.<br />
This MUST be done AFTER colour synthesis, as summing raw images is very likely<br />
to destroy the filter grid pattern and so prevent the creation of a proper colour image.<br />
Summing can be done in the ‘Merge’ menu and involves loading the first processed<br />
image, selecting a reference point (a star) then loading the second image and finding<br />
the same star with the mouse. Once the reference is selected, you can either add<br />
directly, or average the images together. Averaging is generally better, as you are less<br />
likely to saturate the highlights of the picture. The signal-to-noise ratio will improve<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
at a rate proportional to the square root of the number of summations (summing 4<br />
images will double the signal-to-noise), but different exposures must be used.<br />
Summing an image with itself will not change the S/N ratio! Another recent addition<br />
to the range of highly effective image enhancing software is a program called ‘Neat<br />
Image’. There is a free demo version for download at:<br />
http://www.neatimage.com/download.html<br />
Although I have concentrated on the use of a telescope for deep-sky imaging, do not<br />
forget that you have the option of using an ordinary camera lens for impressive widefield<br />
shots! A good quality 200mm F3.5 lens with an infrared blocking filter will yield<br />
very nice images of large objects, such as M31, M42, M45 etc. If you cannot obtain a<br />
large IR blocker for the front of the lens, it is quite acceptable to place a small one<br />
behind the lens, inside the adaptor tube. You can even try using a light pollution filter<br />
to bring out nebulae, reduce light pollution and sharpen the star images. The Hutech<br />
IDAS types are particularly effective with a colour camera.<br />
Adjusting the focal plane of the camera:<br />
With a very wide field camera, it is very likely that the CCD will not be accurately<br />
parallel to the telescope focal plane. This may be seen as a variation in the focus<br />
quality from one side of the image to the other, or as distortion of the stars towards<br />
one side. Because of this possibility, we have provided an array of antagonistic screws<br />
around the front plate of the SXV-M25. These may be adjusted with an Allen key and<br />
locked at the correct angle to make the focal surfaces co-planar. To make the<br />
adjustment, first slacken all three of the set screws so that the front plate is free to tilt.<br />
The spring washers behind the plate will resist any movement, but turning the main<br />
fixing screws will tilt the plate and allow you to experiment with the alignment. Once<br />
the focus is equally good across the entire image field, turn the set screws to lock the<br />
plate into the correct position.<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
Taking pictures of the planets:<br />
The SXV-M25 is not designed as a planetary camera, but it can be used quite<br />
successfully in the ‘sub-frame’ mode. Planetary imaging is in many ways quite<br />
different from deep sky imaging. Most deep sky objects are faint and relatively large,<br />
so a short focal length and a long exposure are needed, while planets are bright and<br />
very small, needing long focal lengths and short exposures. High resolution is critical<br />
to achieving good results and a suitable focal length will be of the order of 5000mm,<br />
or more. An SCT with a 3 or 5x Barlow lens will provide a reasonable image scale for<br />
the planets – any vignetting is unimportant as only the field centre is required.<br />
Many camera users comment on the difficulty of finding the correct focus when<br />
taking pictures of Jupiter etc. This is usually due to poor seeing conditions, which are<br />
only too common, but may also be due in part to poor collimation of your telescope.<br />
Please ensure that the optics are properly aligned as shown by star testing, or by using<br />
one of the patent collimation aids that are widely available. It is also better to use a<br />
star for initial focusing, as planetary detail is difficult to judge in bad seeing. Although<br />
the star will also suffer from blurring, the eye can more easily gauge when the most<br />
compact blur has been achieved!<br />
You could begin by imaging lunar craters, or the planets, Jupiter, Saturn or Mars. The<br />
rapid variations of seeing which accompany planetary imaging will ruin the definition<br />
of about 95% of your images and so I recommend setting the camera to run in<br />
‘Autosave’ mode. This will automatically take a sequence of images and save them<br />
with sequential file names in your ‘Autosave’ directory. Dozens of images will be<br />
saved, but only one or two will be satisfactory for further processing. The ‘Subframe’<br />
mode of the SXV will be found useful for limiting the wasted area and reducing the<br />
download time of small planetary images.<br />
To start the Autosave process, call up the SXV Camera Interface and select the<br />
‘Continuous Mode’ check box at the top (make sure the rest are unchecked). Now<br />
check the ‘Autosave Image’ checkbox near the bottom of the window. If you now<br />
click on ‘Take Picture’ the automatic sequence will begin and will not stop until you<br />
press a computer key. The images will be saved in FITs format with sequential names<br />
such as ‘Img23, Img24….’ and will be found in the ‘Autosave’ directory (or a subdirectory<br />
of Autosave, set up in the program defaults menu).<br />
The exposure time needed for good planetary images is such that the image histogram<br />
has a peak value at around 200 and does not extend much above 220 (Ignore the<br />
major peak near zero, due to the dark background). If you use too short an exposure<br />
time, the image noise level will be increased, and if too long a time is used you will<br />
saturate the highlights and cause white patches on the image. With the recommended<br />
focal length, Jupiter and Mars will both need an exposure time of between 0.1 and 1<br />
seconds and Saturn will need between 0.5 and 2 seconds.<br />
Processing a planetary image:<br />
Planetary images have one major advantage over deep sky images, when you come to<br />
process them – they are MUCH brighter, with a correspondingly better signal to noise<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
ratio. This means that aggressive sharpening filters may be used without making the<br />
result look very noisy and so some of the effects of poor seeing can be neutralised.<br />
Try applying an ‘Unsharp Mask’ filter with a radius of 5 and a power of 5. This will<br />
greatly increase the visibility of any detail on the planet, but the optimum radius and<br />
power will have to be determined by experiment.<br />
Jupiter after an ‘Unsharp mask’<br />
In general terms, the larger the image and the worse the seeing, then the wider the<br />
radius for best results. My Jupiter shots are usually about one tenth of the height of<br />
the CCD frame and I find that the ‘radius 5, power 5’ values are good for most<br />
average seeing conditions. If you have exceptionally good conditions, then a<br />
reduction to R=3, P=3 will probably give a more natural look to the image, as too<br />
large a radius and power tends to outline edges with dark or bright borders.<br />
As a finishing touch, the application of a Median filter or a Weighted Mean Low Pass<br />
filter can be useful to smooth out the high frequency noise after a strong Unsharp<br />
Mask.<br />
As with deep-sky images, it is advantageous to sum colour planetary images together<br />
to improve the signal to noise ratio. In this case, the ‘averaging’ option should always<br />
be used, or the result is likely to exceed the dynamic range of the software and<br />
saturate the highlights. Aligning the images is always something of a problem, as<br />
there are rarely any stars to use when imaging the planets, but Jupiter’s satellites can<br />
be useful reference points. Otherwise, you will have to find a well-defined feature on<br />
the planet, or estimate where the centre of the disk is located. Some more<br />
sophisticated software can automatically align planetary images and you may find<br />
these programs to be very useful (e.g. Registax’).<br />
*********************************************************************<br />
Using the add-on autoguider:<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
A very useful accessory is the add-on autoguider head, which takes its power and<br />
control signals directly from the SXV camera, via the 18 way socket on its rear panel.<br />
The autoguider is only 1.25” in diameter and has a video style ‘CS’ mount thread in<br />
its nose, so video lenses may be attached. The guider may be used with either an offaxis<br />
prism assembly mounted in front of the SXV camera, or with a separate guide<br />
telescope, rigidly mounted alongside your imaging telescope. I personally use it with<br />
an 80mm aperture F5, inexpensive refractor as a guide ‘scope, but a shorter focal<br />
length lens will make more guide stars available in any given region of sky (See the<br />
picture below).<br />
To use the autoguider, first orient it so that the connector plug is roughly parallel to<br />
the declination axis of your mount. This is not absolutely essential, as the training<br />
routine will learn the angle of the head and compensate for it, but it is easier to<br />
understand the motion of the guide star if the guider frame is aligned with the RA and<br />
Dec axes. Now connect the head to the SXV camera, using the 18 way connector lead,<br />
including the port divider box, if it is to be used.<br />
The recommended way of connecting the autoguider output to the mount is to use an<br />
RJ11 telephone lead between the socket on the SXV camera and the autoguider input<br />
of your mount. This output is ‘active low’ (i.e. the control relays pull the guider inputs<br />
down to zero volts when applying a guide correction) and matches most of the<br />
autoguider inputs on commercial mounts. If ‘active high’ inputs are needed, or a very<br />
low control voltage drop is essential, then you will need to add a <strong>Starlight</strong> <strong>Xpress</strong><br />
‘relay box’ between the guider output and the input to the mount. Please contact your<br />
local distributor if a relay box is required. Some mounts (Vixen, for example) use a<br />
similar guider input socket, but have re-arranged connections. Details are given on our<br />
web pages at the end of the ‘STAR2000’ section.<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
The autoguider installed on a 80mm refractor guide ‘scope in the author’s garden<br />
To use the autoguider, please proceed as follows:<br />
1) Having started the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> software, open the autoguider control panel by<br />
clicking on the autoguider menu button.<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
The autoguider control panel with a guide star selected<br />
2) Press the ‘Start’ button and a series of 1 second exposure guider images will<br />
begin to appear in the picture frame. If the images look too dim, use the<br />
‘Stretch Image’ slider to increase its contrast and brightness until the noise<br />
begins to be visible.<br />
3) If you haven’t focused the guider lens or ‘scope, move the mount until a bright<br />
star is visible on the guider image and then adjust the focus until it is as sharp<br />
as possible.<br />
4) At this point, you may want to test the guiding control by pressing the manual<br />
‘Move Telescope’ buttons at the bottom left corner of the control panel. You<br />
can watch the position of any stars in the guider image and confirm that they<br />
move in response to the buttons. The movement should be slow if the correct<br />
guiding rate is selected on your mount (typically 2x sidereal). Adjust this, if<br />
necessary.<br />
5) Move the mount until the required object for imaging is properly framed in the<br />
main CCD image (leave the guider menu and use the main camera control<br />
panel, as necessary).<br />
6) Re-open the guider control panel, start imaging and try to locate a clearly<br />
visible guide star. If necessary, make adjustments to the guide telescope or offaxis<br />
guider until one is found.<br />
7) Press ‘Stop’ and then press ‘Select Guide Star’. Use the mouse to left click on<br />
the selected star and a green cross will highlight it and the co-ordinates will<br />
appear in the text boxes above the image window.<br />
8) The various guiding rate defaults, listed on the right-hand side of the control<br />
panel, are unlikely to be perfect for your particular telescope and mount. You<br />
have the option of manually selecting values, or asking the software to attempt<br />
to determine what they should be. This is done by pressing the ‘Train’ button<br />
and waiting for the software to complete a sequence of automatic moves and<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
calculations. The training will also determine the angle at which the guide<br />
camera is oriented with respect to the RA and Dec axes. If you do not wish to<br />
train the system at this time, the default values of 6 pixels per second will<br />
serve as a starting point.<br />
9) Now press ‘Go to main camera’ and the guider control panel will be replaced<br />
by the camera control panel. Set the required exposure time for the image (say<br />
5 minutes) and press the ‘Autoguide next image’ button. The autoguider<br />
window will reappear and, after a few seconds, you should see error values<br />
appearing in the text windows at the top. The guide star will be fairly close to<br />
the green cross, although not necessarily accurately centred, and you should<br />
see the power/ guide LED on the rear of the camera brighten and change<br />
colour with each correction.<br />
10) If the star begins to drift away from the cross, despite the corrections being<br />
made, the chances are that the N/S and/or E/W directions are set wrongly.<br />
Judge which axis is incorrectly set by observing the direction of the drift and<br />
then stop the exposure by pressing ‘Esc’. Open the guider control panel and<br />
check the appropriate swap box(es). After this operation, you will probably<br />
need to find the guide star again by taking a guider image and reselecting the<br />
star, as before. Now return to the main camera menu and try the ‘Autoguide<br />
next image’ button again.<br />
11) Once guiding is taking place without problems, the main exposure can be<br />
allowed to finish and, if all is well, you should see an image with tiny circular<br />
stars.<br />
If the stars are not circular, you may need to alter the guiding parameters, or<br />
investigate the rigidity and drive performance of your mount. A lot of information<br />
can be deduced by watching the behaviour of the guide star in the guider frame. If<br />
it is continually moving between two locations, either side of the green cross, then<br />
the RA or Dec pixels per second value is set too low. The higher these values are<br />
set, the gentler the guiding becomes. Too low a value will cause an overaggressive<br />
correction to be made and result in oscillation of the star position<br />
between two points.<br />
Another source of guiding errors can be a too accurately balanced telescope<br />
mount! Good balance can result in the telescope mount ‘bouncing’ between the<br />
gear teeth as corrections are made. A simple fix is to add a weight of about 0.5kg<br />
(1 pound) on the eastern end of the declination axis, so that there is always some<br />
pressure acting against the gear teeth.<br />
Getting a good result from an autoguider will often entail a lot of detective work<br />
to eliminate the sources of gear error, telescope flexure, mirror shift etc., but the<br />
final result is well worth the effort!<br />
*********************************************************************<br />
Using the built-in serial ports<br />
The SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> incorporates two fast serial ports for use with external accessories.<br />
The ports are available on 5 pins of the 18 way connector that is provided for the<br />
autoguider and may be accessed by plugging in a ‘serial port divider box’. The divider<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
box and cables are available as an accessory and may be chained in series with the<br />
autoguider cable, when the guider is in use, or may be used on its own.<br />
The two serial connections are in the form of standard RS232 PC style plugs and<br />
provide TX, RX and Ground connections at RS232 levels. Access is via commands<br />
sent through the USB connection and, at the time of writing, is limited to any serial<br />
controls that are provided by the SXV software. It is expected that many more<br />
functions will be added as the software is upgraded.<br />
*********************************************************************<br />
Other features of the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> hardware and software<br />
‘Slew & Sum’ imaging:<br />
The SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> can be used in an automatic image-stacking mode, called ‘Slew &<br />
Sum’. The camera is set to take several sequential exposures, which are automatically<br />
‘slewed’ into alignment and then summed together by the software. This mode can<br />
help to overcome a poor RA drive by summing images that have exposure times<br />
shorter than the drive error period. The resulting image has more noise than a single<br />
exposure of the same total length, but this method of imaging is still an effective way<br />
of making long exposures without a guider.<br />
To take an S&S image, go to the camera interface window and select an exposure<br />
time for one image of the sequence. Do not use a very short exposure time, as the<br />
read-out noise will become dominant. About 30 seconds is a reasonable minimum.<br />
Now go to the ‘Multiple Exposure Options’ and select a number of exposures to take.<br />
You can also select to average the images, rather than adding them, and there is a<br />
‘Alternative Slew Mode’ available, which uses the correlation of image areas, rather<br />
than a single star. This mode can be better in dense star fields.<br />
Another option is ‘Auto remove dark frame’. This is advisable with S&S images, as<br />
the slewing will mis-register the images with a single dark frame that is applied to the<br />
finished sequence. To use this option, you will need a dark frame, taken with the same<br />
exposure time as a single image from the sequence. This is stored on drive C with the<br />
name ‘dark.def’<br />
Now click on ‘Take Picture’ and the sequence will begin.<br />
Using the ‘Binned’ modes:<br />
Up to this point, I have assumed that the full resolution, imaging mode is being used.<br />
This is essential for colour imaging, but it will often provide more resolution than the<br />
optical system, or the seeing, allows. ‘Binned 2x2’ mode sums groups of 4 pixels into<br />
one output pixel, thus creating a 696 x 520 pixel image with 4 times the effective<br />
sensitivity. Using 2x2 binning, you can considerably improve the sensitivity of the<br />
SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> without losing a great deal of resolving power, so you may like to use<br />
this mode to capture many faint deep-sky objects in monochrome. Other binning<br />
modes (3x3 and 4x4) are available and will further increase the image brightness and<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
reduce its resolution. However, generally, these are more useful for finding faint<br />
objects, than for imaging, as the colour information is lost in all these modes.<br />
.<br />
*********************************************************************<br />
The SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> accessory ports<br />
The SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> is provided with two ports for use with accessories. The Autoguider<br />
output port is a 6 way RJ11 socket, which is compatible with the standard autoguider<br />
input of most telescope mounts. It provides 4 active-low opto-isolator outputs and a<br />
common return line, capable of sinking a minimum of 5mA per output. This socket<br />
may be used for telescope control if the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> is employed as an autoguider,<br />
but is primarily intended to be the control output for the optional add-on autoguider<br />
camera head, available for use with the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong>.<br />
The high density parallel port socket provides both control and power for the add-on<br />
autoguider, but also includes a pair of serial ports for use with other devices.<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
*********************************************************************<br />
Camera maintenance:<br />
Very little maintenance is needed to keep the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> in excellent operating<br />
order, however two problems, which are common to all CCD equipment, might show<br />
up on occasion. These are dust particles and condensation.<br />
Removing Dust:<br />
1) Dust can be deposited on either the optical window (not a big problem to cure), or<br />
on the CCD faceplate (difficult to eliminate entirely). When small particles collect on<br />
the window they may not be noticed at all on deep sky (small F ratio) images, as they<br />
will be very much out of focus. However, if a powerful contrast boost of the image is<br />
carried out, they may well begin to show as the shadow ‘Do-nuts’ or disks mentioned<br />
earlier. Images taken with a large F ratio optical system are more likely to be affected<br />
by such dirt, owing to the smaller and sharper shadows that they cast. There is no<br />
great difficulty in removing such particles on the outside surface by the careful use of<br />
a lens cleaning cloth or ‘air duster’ and so you should have little trouble with this<br />
aspect of maintenance. Dust on the CCD faceplate is a much greater nuisance, as it<br />
casts very sharply defined and dark shadows and it entails dismantling the camera to<br />
get rid of it! To clean the CCD you will need a good quality lens cloth (no silicone) or<br />
tissues and some high-grade isopropyl alcohol. A very suitable cloth is the ‘Micro-<br />
Fibre’ type marketed by PENTAX etc., and suitable alcohol is available from Tandy<br />
(Radio Shack) etc. as tape head cleaning fluid. A bright light and a strong<br />
watchmakers eyeglass will also be found to be essential.<br />
Procedure:<br />
1) Disconnect the lead from the camera head and remove it from the telescope. Place<br />
it on a table with the optical window facing downward.<br />
2) Remove the two M3 screws from the camera back plate and ease the plate out of<br />
the camera body. Unplug the power lead from the camera PCB.<br />
3) Withdraw the body cylinder and unscrew the two long spacer pillars from the heat<br />
sink plate assembly.<br />
4) The entire camera electronic assembly can now be lifted away from the camera<br />
front barrel and the CCD will be readily accessible. Note that a layer of white heatsink<br />
compound is applied to the periphery of the heat sink disc and this should be left<br />
undisturbed by subsequent operations.<br />
5) You can now closely examine the CCD faceplate under the spotlight using the<br />
watchmaker's glass when any dust motes will show clearly. If there is only an odd<br />
particle or two and the CCD is otherwise clean, carefully brush away the dust with a<br />
corner of your lens cloth. A smeared or very dusty CCD will need a few drops of<br />
alcohol to clean thoroughly and you may have to make several attempts before the<br />
surface is free of contamination. One gentle wipe from one end to the other, with no<br />
return stroke, will be found to be the most effective action. DO NOT rub vigorously<br />
and be very careful to avoid scratching the window.<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
6) Before re-assembly, make certain that the inside surface of the front window is also<br />
clean, and then carefully replace the camera front barrel and screw it into place. (If the<br />
heat sink seal is disturbed, renew it with fresh compound before reassembling).<br />
7) Replace all the camera parts in reverse order and the job is done.<br />
Dealing with condensation:<br />
The SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> is designed to avoid condensation by minimising the volume of air<br />
trapped within the CCD cavity and by preventing moisture ingress. This normally<br />
works very well, but storage of the camera in a humid location can lead to the trapped<br />
air becoming moist by diffusion through the optical window mounting thread etc. and<br />
can result in condensation on the CCD window. If this becomes a problem, try storing<br />
the camera in a warm, dry place, or in a plastic lunch box containing a sachet of silica<br />
gel desiccant.<br />
N.B. DO NOT leave the camera switched on for long periods between uses. The<br />
cold CCD will collect ice by slow diffusion through any small leaks and this will<br />
become corrosive water on the cooler and CCD pins when the power is removed. If<br />
substantial amounts of moisture are seen, dismantle the camera and dry it<br />
thoroughly.<br />
*********************************************************************<br />
Alternative Software<br />
Although we hope that you will be satisfied with our ‘SXV_<strong>M25C</strong>_USB’ software,<br />
other companies are offering alternative programs with more powerful processing<br />
functions. The most active and successful of these is ‘AstroArt’ by MSB software.<br />
You can purchase AstroArt from many dealers Worldwide and more information may<br />
be obtained from their web site at http://www.msb-astroart.com<br />
‘Maxim DL’ is another popular choice and you can find out more by visiting<br />
http://www.cyanogen.com<br />
*********************************************************************<br />
Some details of the camera and CCD characteristics<br />
CCD type: Sony ICX413AK SuperHAD progressive scan imager with RGBG<br />
Bayer colour filter matrix.<br />
CCD size:<br />
Active area 23.4mm x 15.6mm<br />
CCD pixels: 3044 x 2016 pixel array. Each pixel is 7.4 x 7.4uM square<br />
Well depth: Full res. mode approx. 30,000e.<br />
Mean visual QE: Approx. 25% effective, 60% for pixels at peak response<br />
Useful spectral response: 360nM – 1100nM<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
Readout noise: Approx. 7e RMS typical, 12e max.<br />
Back focal distance: The CCD is approximately 18mm from the barrel front.<br />
Camera size: 75mm diameter x 100mm long<br />
Dear Observer,<br />
Thank you for purchasing a <strong>Starlight</strong> <strong>Xpress</strong> CCD Imaging System. We are confident that you will gain<br />
much satisfaction from this equipment, but please read carefully the accompanying instruction manual<br />
to ensure that you achieve the best performance that is capable of providing.<br />
As with most sophisticated equipment a certain amount of routine maintenance is necessary to keep the<br />
equipment operating at its optimum performance. The maintenance has been kept to a minimum, and is<br />
fully described in the manual.<br />
In the unfortunate instance when the equipment does not perform as expected might we recommend<br />
that you first study the fault finding information supplied. If this does not remedy the problem, then<br />
contact <strong>Starlight</strong> <strong>Xpress</strong> for further advice. Our message board service on the <strong>Starlight</strong> <strong>Xpress</strong> web site<br />
will often provide solutions to any problems.<br />
The equipment is covered by a 12-month guarantee covering faulty design, material or workmanship in<br />
addition to any statutory Consumer Rights of Purchasers.<br />
CONDITIONS OF GUARANTEE<br />
1) The equipment shall only be used for normal purposes described in the standard operating<br />
instructions, and within the relevant safety standards of the country where the equipment is used.<br />
2) Repairs under guarantee will be free of charge providing proof of purchase is produced, and that the<br />
equipment is returned to the Service Agent at the Purchaser’s expense and risk, and that the equipment<br />
proves to be defective.<br />
3) The guarantee shall not apply to equipment damaged by fire, accident, wear an tear, misuse,<br />
unauthorised repairs, or modified in any way whatsoever, or damage suffered in transit to or from the<br />
Purchaser.<br />
4) The Purchaser’s sole and exclusive rights under this guarantee is for repair, or at our discretion the<br />
replacement of the equipment or any part thereof, and no remedy to consequential loss or damage<br />
whatsoever.<br />
5) This guarantee shall not apply to components that have a naturally limited life.<br />
6) <strong>Starlight</strong> <strong>Xpress</strong>’s decision in all matters is final, and any faulty component which has been replaced<br />
will become the property of <strong>Starlight</strong> <strong>Xpress</strong> Ltd.<br />
For further info. or advice, please call:<br />
Mr Michael Hattey,<br />
<strong>Starlight</strong> <strong>Xpress</strong> Ltd.,<br />
Briar House, Foxley Green Farm,<br />
Ascot Road, Holyport,<br />
Berkshire,<br />
England. SL6 3LA<br />
Tel: 01628 777126<br />
Fax: 01628 580411<br />
e-mail: Michael.hattey@starlight-xpress.co.uk<br />
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Handbook for the SXV-<strong>M25C</strong> Issue 1 June 2004<br />
Web site: http://www.starlight-xpress.co.uk<br />
33